Peaches Ballerina Angel
About 18" Tall
© Judi K. Ward - Judi's Dolls 1978
© Judi K. Ward - Judi's Dolls 1996
Judi’s Dolls
P.O. Box 1015
St. Helens, Oregon 97051

This Little Angelic Ballerina is so sweet and pretty she will steal your heart.  She has the simple mitt hand for the "Finger Shy" but is really beautiful with separate fingers.  You can design poseable fingered hands for her yourself, by taking my FREE Finger Design Lesson at Crafty College (

Materials Needed

1…About 1/4 yd. Flesh colored velour or other firm
      knit for doll. Excellent quality felt is good too.
      Do Not Make This Doll From Woven Fabric. She
      is designed for firm knits and her shaping will
      not be as lovely with woven fabric. Her clothes
      will also be too big if you make her from woven

2…A  4” x 12” piece of long pile fur for hair.

3… Acrylic paints or embroidery floss for face.
       white, pink, red, black, blue and eye color
       of your choice. Also paint to match the
       tutu to paint the shoes with.

4…A small piece of swimsuit fabric that is part lycra
      spandex…or…slightly stretchy fabric like lame,
      “silkama” velour, or metallic coated knit fabric
       for the body suit (tutu).

5…2  yds of 1/8th” ribbon for shoe ties.

6…1 yd. Of 1/8th” wide ribbon for
      shoulder ties.

7…1 pound of polyester stuffing.

8….2 large  (about 1”)  buttons with shanks for
       leg joints. Big metal coat buttons are great.
       buttons to cover with the teeth inside are great too.
       I carry them in my catalog.

9…2 large (about 3/4th.”) Buttons with shanks
      for arm joints. Big metal coat buttons are great.
      buttons to cover with the teeth inside are great too.
      I carry them in my catalog.

10…1 yd. Plain nylon tulle  at least 54” wide for
       the three under layers of the skirt.

11…9” x 54”    (1/4th yd. ) of metallic printed nylon
       tulle for the top layer of the skirt.  I have
       found it with stars in gold and silver,
       with tiny gold or silver flecks and
       with tiny gold or silver hearts.

12…1/3rd yd. Of metallic fabric for wings. And one 9”x12”
        piece of felt for inside the wings to stiffen them.

13…1 1/2  yds. Of ½” wide metallic, wire edged ribbon for
        bows on dress, wings and in hair.

14…1/2  yd. Of 1 ½”  wide wire edged ribbon for bows in hair
        and on wings.

15… A long (6” to 8”) needle for stringing legs and arms to
         body. I carry these in my catalog, and  CRs Crafts
         carries one too.

16…4 yds. Of strong nylon jointing cord. Available
        from my catalog…or…8 yds. Of dental floss.
       if you use dental floss you will need to use double
       the amount called for in the “stringing directions”.

17…A very tiny pointed paintbrush if you are painting
       the face.

18…Powdered blush in a soft pink tone.

19…Ordinary sewing supplies and paper to retrace your  pattern onto.

20…A package of gold or silver ribbon roses.

21…Tacky glue …or… hot glue and a hot glue gun. I prefer hot glue.


Note:  Face features should be transferred to face piece before starting to sew, unless you are a good “freehander” They should  be painted or embroidered after your doll is stuffed.

Trace features very lightly  with a pink colored pencil, making as few marks as you can possibly get by with.  Freehand where ever you think you can. The fewer marks on your dolls face the better.
To cut 1 reverse 1 simply fold your fabric right sides together and cut them both at the same time.
You can use the arm and leg patterns without adding the seam allowances. Simply put them on doubled fabric and draw around them. Sew on the lines you drew.

All of the other parts need to have seam allowances added. Since different computer programs will make the pattern come out different sizes in each computer, the patterns have to be presented without seam allowances. If they had the seam allowances on them already, the seam allowances would also come out different sizes!

1.  Trace all pattern pieces to other paper. Add seam allowances where needed. Cut pieces from fabrics according to  instructions on pattern pieces.

2.  Sew center front and center back seams of body.

3.  Sew body front to body back at side seams, leaving the neck open.

4.  Sew leg and arm seams, leaving open between dots.

5.   Sew center back seam of “head back” from square to dot.

6.   Sew head gusset around head back from * to *.

7.    Sew gusset seam to dot.

8.   Sew the other edge of the gusset around head front, centering the seam in the gusset at center of chin.
      Note: It’s best and easiest to sew the gusset on with the (head back or front) on the bottom and the gusset on top, you can ease the gusset around with much greater ease this way,

9.   Clip curves at thumb, ankle, back of knee, wrist, and inner elbow.

10.  Turn all pieces right side out.

11.  Stuff legs and arms very firmly, shaping as you stuff. Curve the arms inward as you stuff making a right and a left arm. Note:  don’t close the openings yet.

12.  Stuff the body firmly, shaping as you stuff.

13.  Stuff the head very firmly, again shaping as you stuff. Carefully form cheeks and chin. Be sure you have plenty of stuffing up into the back of head and in cheek and chin area.

14.  Put head onto neck of body using a “screwing it on” method. Be sure to position the head with the face to the front or slightly to side. You can also tip it slightly for a coy look. You will be pleased to note, that by screwing the head on, the raw edges of the opening in the head will turn under by themselves. When the head is in place. sew the head to body by hand, using a ladder stitch. A ladder stitch is “a stitch in the body then a stitch in the head” take two or three stitches like that, then pull them tight. The stitches will practically disappear.

15. To insert the big buttons and  attach the arms and legs  see “Skill Sheet 1” which is at the end of this pattern. This jointing method can be used for any jointed doll to achieve invisible joints.

16.  Sew the ears around the curved edge. Turn ears right side out and top stitch around the edge where shown on the pattern.  Pin the ears to the sides of the doll’s  head in  reverse position, so the top of ear is at eye height and bottom of ear is about mouth level. Sew ear to head along the straight edge. Flip ears into correct position then tack or hot glue down.


17.  Paint or embroider the face.  The mouth is pink with a darker pink dividing line. The iris’s of the eyes are the color of your choice, with a few lines or  stitches in a lighter or darker color, radiating from center to side.  The pupils are black as are the eyelashes, eyebrows and eye outline. The lines above the eyes are blue.  Be sure to put the white “life-lites” in the eyes. If you painted the face, let dry.

18.  Paint the shoes to match the tutu.  Let dry.

19.  For the hair, cut a strip of long fur 11” x 4”. The fur should be “growing” as pictured. Cut only the fabric back not the fur.  The 1” x 4”  leftover end will be used to make curls at the sides of the head.  Cut two pieces of fur 1” x 1” and two pieces ½” x ½”.


20.  Put the fur around the head with the fur against the face and  “growing” down.  Fur should start at nape of neck and come around just above ears, over the forehead about 1/2” above the eyebrows, above the other ear and back down to the nape of neck.  Pin and stitch the hair on all around the head. You can hot glue the hair all around the edge instead of sewing if you wish, it’s my favorite way and it’s fast. It’s also very strong!

21. Turn the “hair” back and brush and spray it back with resin spray (holds best) or hair spray.  Pull the hair together at the top and secure with a rubber band or string, making a pony  tail. Now brush, spray and roll the “pony tail” inward all around to make a bun.  Spray and roll the little pieces of fur into tight little sausage curls as diagrammed. Let them dry, then hot glue or stitch them in place at each side of your dolls head right in front of the ears.

22.  Decorate the bun with ribbons and flowers.

23.  Blush the cheeks, knees, elbows and tops of hands with blush on a soft brush.  Practice on a scrap of doll fabric first if this is new to you.


Clothing Instructions

1.  Sew side seams of tutu body suit, and side seams of facings.

2.  Cut shoulder tie ribbons into four 8” long pieces.

3.  Sew the facing to the tutu, right sides together, catching a ribbon tie in the seam at each point marked with a star on the tutu pattern.  (ribbons will be between facing and tutu.)  Clip curves and turn facing to inside.  Press if needed but test on a scrap of fabric first. Some metallics can not be ironed.  Do not top stitch around the facing yet!

4.   Narrowly hem the leg openings.

5.  Stack the four 54” long strips of nylon tulle on top of each other,  with the metallic flecked  piece on the bottom. Gather one long edge through all four thickness.  Pull the gathers tight, then fit, pin and sew the skirt to the “skirt line” on the tutu with the skirt facing upwards towards the shoulders.
Start at the center back dot and end at the dot on the other side.

6.  With the tutu wrong side out sew the center back seam, facing included. Don’t catch the tulle in the seam.   Sew the back seam of the top layer of the skirt up as far as you can. You don’t need to sew the back seam of the three other layers.

7.  Sew the crotch seam, and then  turn tutu right side out

8.  Top stitch around the neckline securing the facings down.

9.   Put the tutu on your doll and tie the shoulder ribbons into bows,

10.  Fold 1 yd, of ribbon in half and tack at the center back of the leg, right at the edge of the painted shoe.

11.  Wrap the ribbon up the leg by criss-crossing at front and back all the way up to the knee. Tie in a bow at the front and clip excess ribbon ends off.  Repeat for the other leg.

12.  Lay the wing pieces down on a table in this order. One metallic wing piece right side up. One metallic wing piece wrong side up on top of the other piece. The felt wing piece on top of that. Sew all around the outer edge of the wings. Cut a slit in the metallic wing piece that you can see (the other is covered by the felt) where shown on the pattern. Turn the wings  right side out through the slit.

13.  Hand sew the slit closed.

14.  Top stitch through all layers on the wings where shown on the pattern to accent

15.  With strong thread or cord, tie the wings in the center to gather them up.


16.  Sew, or hot glue the wings to the back of the tutu right at the top edge of the tutu. If the are too heavy and pull the tutu down,  simply take a few  stitches  from the back side of  the tutu where the wings are attached, into the body, to secure the wings and tutu to the body.

17.  Make bows from the wide metallic ribbon. Secure one to the back of  the wings and one to
The front of the bun.

18. Tie two bows from the narrow metallic ribbon, and cut the remaining piece into three almost equal sized pieces. Secure one bow to the front of the tutu. One bow to the front of the bun on top of the big bow, and the three pieces to the center of the big bow on the wings.

19.  Glue three ribbon roses to the center of the ribbons on the wings.

20.  Glue a ribbon rose “or three” to the center of the ribbons on the bun.

21.  Glue ribbon roses or tiny bows to the front of the “shoes” and to the shoulder ties if desired.


Below are links to the the pattern.  Your computer/printer may print this pattern in a different size than need to make the doll the correct size.  Re-size the wing page on a copy machine to fit the "Inch Size" marked, and then enlarge the other pages by the same percentage.  This will give you an 18" doll.   If you have any problems printing please contact our Webmaster.

~ Page 1 ~ Page 2 ~ Page 3 ~ Page 4 ~

 If you have problems print the pattern graphics above please try these reduced pattern graphics.
~ Page 1s ~ Page 2s ~ Page 3s ~ Page 4s ~

Skill Sheets
~ Sheet 1 and 2 ~

Happy Dollmaking

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St. Helens, Oregon 97051

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